Formulation Challenges – Cosmetics Industry

Scientific Advisor

The use of cosmeceutical ingredients has experienced substantial growth over time, and there is a continuous pursuit of new active agents within the cosmetics industry. Although many of these ingredients demonstrate promising outcomes in laboratory experiments (in-vitro data), there is often a lack of clinical data to substantiate their claims. Additionally, formulators commonly integrate these actives into pre-existing formulations instead of employing an optimized formulation strategy.

Contemporary consumers have elevated their expectations when it comes to cosmetic products, seeking not only functional efficacy but also the fulfilment of their specific desires. Failure to meet these expectations significantly diminishes the chances of long-term success in the fiercely competitive marketplace.

Looking ahead, there are several formulation challenges that need to be addressed:

  • Determining the ideal emulsion system: It is crucial to find the optimal formulation that effectively delivers the desired ingredient to the viable epidermis by overcoming the main barrier for skin penetration, the stratum corneum. Factors such as partition coefficients and penetrant polarity play a significant role in this process.
  • Identifying novel ingredients aligned with the clean beauty concept: There is a growing demand for ingredients that meet clean beauty standards, have a minimal environmental impact in terms of carbon footprint, and are genuinely natural. These ingredients should also be multifunctional and compatible with other ingredients in the formulation.
  • Advancing knowledge of skin molecular biology: Continuous research and understanding of the molecular biology of the skin, particularly in the specific region where the product will be used, are essential. This knowledge will contribute to the development of more effective and targeted cosmetic products.

Addressing these formulation challenges will be crucial for the future of the cosmetics industry, ensuring the development of innovative products that meet consumer expectations while prioritizing sustainability and efficacy.